Seams, How-to: Open Seam, Closed Seam, French Seam & Machine Run and Fell Seam.

Following on from my previous post on 'Fashion Terminology', here is a short how-to on how to sew certain seams:

Open Seam

Open seam – This is a seam which is only stitched once and the raw edges are pressed apart. This is used in medium and heavy weight materials where a flat finish is desired, like the seams of skirts or the underarm and shoulder.

·         Place the fabric edges together.

·         Stitch together, leaving 1 cm seam allowance or however much your pattern states.

·         Open the two shorter edges that have been stitched and press with an iron so they are both facing opposite ways outwards.

·         Then over-lock the edges separately.

Closed Seam

Closed seam – This is where a second row of stitching is placed just behind the joining. Coat and skirt seams are often stitched like this.

·         Place the fabric edges together.

·         Stitch together, leaving 1 cm seam allowance or however much your pattern states.

·         Over-lock both pieces together.

·         Opening up the two pieces of fabric, press the over-locked seam to one side.

French Seam

French seam – A French seam has the edges doubled in so that no raw or frayed edges show. This type of seam is used on thin material for garments like blouses.

·         Place the fabric edges together.

·         Stitch together, leaving 1 cm seam allowance or however much your pattern states.

·         Over-lock both pieces together.

·         Opening up the two pieces of fabric, turn it upside down so the over-locked seam is facing the ground.

·         Fold the fabric over the over-locked seam so that the seam is tucked inside of it, press with iron.

·         Using your fingers to feel where the seam is, carefully edge stitch over the top of the fabric so the seam gets caught inside.

·         Opening up the fabric again take the seam, which should now be sticking up slightly, and press it to one side with an iron.

Machine Run and Fell Seam

Machine run and fell seam – This is where both edges of the seam are tucked under each other and then stitched flat. Men’s shirts and underwear and women’s tailored blouses and shirts are often made this way.

·         Place the fabric edges together.

·         Stitch together, leaving 1 cm seam allowance or however much your pattern states.

·         Carefully cut one of the pieces of fabric by the seam about 0.5cm into the 1cm seam allowance.

·         Over-lock both the shorter and longer edges by the seam.

·         Fold the longer seam edge snugly over the shorter; if necessary, press the fold with an iron to hold it in place.

·         Then fold the larger piece of fabric that is before the seam over the top of the longer seam edge that has just been folded, again, press with iron if necessary.

·         Sew an edge stitch over the fabric on the opposite side that has just been folded over.