Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Deconstruction Part 2 - Jeans

These photos follow the process of deconstructing my second garment, a pair of jeans.
I started by unpicking the lamé ‘River Island’ brand jean logo off of the back waistband of the jeans, as it had only been top stitched onto the garment and looked as though it was the last piece to be sewn on to the jeans.
I then went onto unpicking the belt loops that were attached to the waistband of the jeans, as they had all been stitched on top of the jeans too and it were a few of the very last pieces to be sewn on.
In total there were 5 belt loops, 3 of which had been folded and stitched into a reinforced belt loop with a triangle shape at the end, these 3 were placed with one at the centre of the back of the waistband, and the other 2 were placed either side of the button and zip just before the start of the front pockets. The 2 belt loops that had not been folded were placed either side of the single folded one at the back.

I then started unpicking the back pockets which were both a variation of a ‘Box Pleat Patch Pocket’ which is ‘A pocket based on the foundations of the ‘Patch Pocket’ but with an added design feature of the front part of the pocket folded over onto itself’. After removing the pocket from the back of the jeans, it was evident that the pocket had been nearly fully constructed before it was then separately sewn onto them. It was attached to the back of the pocket by sewing a line over it onto the jeans, about 5mm inside of the stitch that was holding the pocket together, the stitching was joined up so that it looked presentable.
I then unpicked that outer line of top stitching and the other separate line of top stitching which was sewn across the top of the pocket featuring a design detail of studs. This gave me two separate pieces, one rectangular top piece and another almost box shaped piece with 3 pleats in the middle, giving it a slight triangular shape at the bottom. Then lastly, I unpicked the stitching on the pleats which had been done using a variation of a ‘French Seam’.





I then moved on to unpicking the waistband of the jeans, I started by the opening for the zip and button hole as that was where there was some reverse stitching indicating that I was the last sewing point of that particular panel. The waistband was sewn using a closed seam on 3 sides and then on the bottom of the longest side, folded over and top stitched onto the top of the rest of the jeans.
It was quite difficult unpicking around the button hole so I unpicked it and carried on around the waistband. Once it was completely detached from the rest of the jeans, I realised that the button had been pushed into the jean fabric using a machine and it was not going to come out. I then started unpicking the brand and size labels which were just sewn simply on 2 of the 4 sides. 

I then moved onto the front pocket where I immediately saw that there were more metal studs pressed into the fabric (similar to the button), so at the first opportunity I cut around them as closely as I could, so that I could keep the fabric almost in one piece. I started unpicking the double stitching and found that the small piece of material detailing that peeked out of the pocket was a small piece of piping with a thin piece of rope inside to shape it.
I unpicked as much as I could before I had to start on the zip since the rest of the material was attached to the middle seam. 
As I unpicked, the zip was clearly broken down into smaller pieces and ended up as just 3 parts.
From there it was pretty straightforward, I just had the seams up the side of the legs to unpick.


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